Legends of Nevegal: The Descent on Coca

The descent into Nevegal is where legends are born, where the echoes of past Downhill UCI World Cups linger in the air. The trails here, once conquered by the world's best, now play host to daring escapades. Within this legendary landscape lies the challenging Coca trail, a forgotten battleground where skilled riders like Paolo Furlan and local trail builder Marco De Col bravely tackle its dangerously neglected terrain.

Descending into Nevegal's legendary Downhill (DH) course, you're instantly engulfed in an almost mystical sense of wonder. It's like stepping back into a time when MTB giants hurled themselves through this earthy labyrinth of rocks and roots. It's where these titans clashed, turning this rugged terrain into their very own Olympus.

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Two decades have rolled by since its heyday, yet "Coca" hasn't lost its edge – still there, cunningly exacting its due in burst tires, wrecked gears, and fractured bones. Trust me, I've paid my dues to that relentless trail.

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Coca, the MTB trail time forgot, remains untamed in spirit. Sure, time has coaxed new roots to snake out from her soil, like a warrior's veins pulsing in battle frenzy, and the elements have honed her rocks to razor sharpness. But her wild, rugged essence? Unchanged.

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Slopes like these are a rare breed. Sculpted by Mother Nature herself, with human touch only fine-tuning what's already a masterpiece. This is where the old school thrives.

This is a tale, much like any significant entity, person, or event, serving as a classic saga of rise and fall. The DH track mirrored this journey as the epicenter of the Downhill World Cup for four years in the 90s. However, time brought change, and as people started to favor the more famous trails in the nearby Dolomites, Nevegal and its track slipped into a state of peaceful stillness.

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This tale of grandeur and fading glory has woven a unique, almost personal ambiance into Nevegàl. It's like a tranquil haven, untouched by crowds, unveiling its timeless charm only to those who cherish its past and appreciate what it remains today. The view from here is nothing short of breathtaking. Whether you're at the summit or riding the chairlift, the vast expanse of Valbelluna and the Belluno Dolomites unfolds before you in a spectacular panorama.

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Before you even crest the summit, Coca gives you a preview of its challenges. The chairlift glides almost teasingly over one of the most daunting stretches – the notorious rocky slope. It's a slow procession, allowing you ample time to brace for what lies ahead. It's akin to the tense moments before a showdown, as if you're marching towards an inevitable duel.

At the summit, there's a moment to soak in the essence of it all. In this adventure, Marco De Col emerges as the ultimate co-protagonist. A local trail builder, he embodies the spirit of this place. His intimate knowledge reflects a deep empathy with nature. He's the guardian, always leading the charge in maintaining and rejuvenating the entire park.

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The starting line has shifted slightly from the World Cup era, now positioned right beside the chairlift station, at an altitude of 1,612 meters. This initial grassy expanse marks your entry into a historical realm, although the meadow has evolved significantly from its original form, which you can still glimpse in parts. It's here that the World Cup battles commenced. The current track, redesigned for speed, aligns with contemporary standards. Words hardly do justice to the thrill of hurtling downhill in such a setting. It's exhilarating, a raw rush – the very essence of life.

Don't let the meadow's serene appearance fool you. Beyond the first few hundred meters, the grassy expanse gives way to rugged, uneven dirt patches that can easily deceive first-timers.

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Then comes the first larch grove, marking a stark transition on the trail. From the high-speed, grass-covered path, it narrows down significantly, slowing your pace as you navigate a mix of roots, rocks, earth, and larch needles for the first time.

Following this, a brief, contemplative stretch along the ski slope provides a moment to gather your thoughts, catch your breath, and mentally prepare for the imminent challenge. Here, the rocks begin to reveal their true, unforgiving nature. This is where the treacherous scree begins.

"Rumor has it, if you look closely among the rocks, you can still find remnants of derailleurs and chain guides."

If Marco says this is the toughest part of the track, there's no doubting its severity. Just observing it in its raw, unapologetic state is enough to convince you of its challenge. It waits, an unforgiving test of skill and nerve. Rumor has it, if you look closely among the rocks, you can still find remnants of derailleurs and chain guides, relics of past struggles.

Over time, the earth has all but vanished, leaving only the stark expanse of bare rock, occasionally shedding stones. Marco points out that this section poses a significant challenge for maintenance. The rough terrain demands laborious, hands-on work with no room for machinery.

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Mastering the quickest route, or at least one that fits your downhill style, can be a trial-and-error process, and not every attempt hits the mark. This part of the Coca trail has remained largely unaltered, save for the changes wrought by water and time, ramping up its difficulty over the years. It's a crazy blend of challenge and drama. Navigating this stretch right under the chairlift, with the curious and amazed eyes of casual Sunday mountain visitors on you, is an experience that's simply unmatched.

As highlighted earlier, Marco is on the front line in maintaining Nevegal's trails. Beyond his dedication to Coca, he has recently crafted and perfected other stunning routes like the Col dei Pez superflow and the Faverghera enduro track, skillfully balancing difficulty levels between the two.

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The DH trail saw a revival in 2014. Though it hosted the regional DH championships in 2009, starting just above the scree, it gradually fell into neglect, reclaimed by the encroaching forest. A brief glimmer of hope for Coca's resurgence flickered in 2011 with its candidacy for the mountain bike world championships in Alpago, but the opportunity faded as the event moved elsewhere. However, in 2014, the new management of the facilities reignited the conversation about mountain biking. This marked the beginning of a resurgence for both the hill and the DH track.

Reaching the midway point of Coca, we now descend into the forest section – a terrain steep, dark, and fiercely untamed. Just before you're engulfed by the forest's shadow, there's this last sliver of light. This area demands the most upkeep come spring, often cluttered with large trees felled by winter. And yes, it's as steep as they come.

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The forest is a reminder of nature's grandeur, enchanting yet unforgiving. Being caught here during a thunderstorm is far from safe or pleasant. In this part of Coca, it's an endless series of roots and sharp rocks. Apart from a brief respite on the ski slope past the first grove, there's no break. It's a relentless test of your mettle, a battle to see if your spirit or limbs are tougher.

Undoubtedly, the most challenging and awe-inspiring part of the final grove is the steep root section, where the optimal path lies to the rider's right. Following this, a brief but dynamic flow segment, featuring three rapid berms, leads into the forest's concluding stretch.

"It's a relentless test of your mettle, a battle to see if your spirit or limbs are tougher."

This final, steep chute weaves through dense roots before you emerge back into the light. It was here, just moments before a much-anticipated beer, that I suffered a broken arm. Making it to this point means you've triumphed. In this endless game, every successful descent is a win, but the trail is always ready for the next round.